Thursday, April 14, 2011

Thailand Destinations - The Isaan Khmer Monuments

The Khmer monuments in northeastern Thailand were built in the period 10th - 13th century AD, a time when Khmer dynasties ruled the area, subordinate to a Khmer King seated at Angkor in present day Cambodia. While these monuments are not of the magnitude of Angkor Wat, they are substantial monuments with statues, lintels and pediments that depict Hindu deities and inscriptions honoring the Khmer dynasty.

The Khmer Empire had its beginnings as early as 790 when King Jayavarman conquered the Javanese Kingdom of Kambuja and introduced the Hindu cult of Devaraja (God King). By 889 AD, the new Angkor Kingdom extended as far as Ubon in Thailand and subsequently to central, eastern, northern and northeastern Thailand, a presence that lasted until the mid 13th century. It was not until 1430 when the Ayutthayan Empire of the Tai-Siamese sacked Angkor that the decline of the Khmer commenced. However, Khmer is still the native language of many people, particularly around Surin in the northeast.

Visitors can reach these monuments by traveling to Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) and take day trips to the different sites. The Khmer temple of Prasat Hin is located at Phimai near Khorat and the Phanom Rung monument is located in the Buri Ram province further northeast.

Phanom Rung

The Khmer temple Prasat Phanom Rung stands on top of an extinct volcano 200 metres above the Buri Ram plain, northeast of Khorat. It is one of the most significant and most visited Khmer monuments in Thailand. The setting is scenic, with views of the surrounding countryside.

Most of the structure was built in the 10th - 12th century AD. Part of the structure, including the central sanctuary, galleries with entrance pavilions and the large staircase were built some decades earlier than Angkor Wat in present day Cambodia. The main temple was built by a Khmer Lord named Narendraditya and his son Hireanya. They belonged to what is called the Mahidharapura dynasty that played an important part in the campaigns of the Angkor Wat ruler Suryavarman II.

Phanom Rung was a Hindu (Shiva) monastery. Sculptures, lintels and pediments depict the Hindu Gods Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The most famous lintel depicts Vishnu reclining on the back of the Naga King Ananta.

Muang Tam ("Low City")

This monument is located near Phanom Rung and is worth a visit only if you also visit Phanom Rung. Its main structure is surrounded by 5 towers and ponds with floating lotus flowers. This structure is not supervised to the same extent as Phanom Rung.

Prasat Hin

This monument is located in Phimai, near the city of Khorat. The town of Phimai is scenic and set near the Moon River with its many branches. The Phimai Inn is located about 1 km outside the town and the guesthouse management can arrange a day excursion to Phanom Rung.

As with Phanom Rung, the monument dates back to the 11th - 13th century AD. Initially built and dedicated to Hindu Gods, the temple later functioned as a Mahayana Buddhist sanctuary.

There is also a National Museum in Phimai that displays restored lintels found at Prasat Hin. Another town attractive attraction is a giant banyan tree.

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