It is not uncommon to be out at night in a bar or restaurant in Chiang Mai and hear the sound of an elephant trumpeting. Nonetheless, it hardly seems like a typical day in the life of an ordinary elephant. Unfortunately for some, however, it has become just that. Though the numbers have dramatically decreased in recent years, a handful of street mahouts still take these jungle creatures out into traffic on a nightly pub crawl begging for food. They walk around with bags of peanuts, mostly in congested tourist areas; the bags are then sold and the peanuts fed to the elephants. Many people also make some monetary contribution in order to have a photo taken next to them while tipping back a cocktail. You must admit it's a bit of a novelty and hardly something most westerners experience in their home towns.
Elephants have long been an integral part of Thai society and culture for hundreds of years. They were often used in battles as transportation for Kings and other royal army officers. At one time, the population of elephants in Thailand was around 100,000 as opposed to around 4,000 today. Elephants were often captured and used for logging and then, after its ban in the late 1980's, many entered into the tourism industry performing in various shows, trekking camps, along with street begging, and often mistreated.
One person who has tried rather successfully to put an end to elephant abuse and return them to a more natural environment is a woman by the name of "Lek". It is hard to imagine at first glance that her petite frame is capable of encapsulating her larger than life spirit.
I first read about Lek when I was researching elephant trekking and camps for a friend's website. I hadn't given much thought to the ethical considerations of the various tourist packages until I ran across an article describing this woman, who had been named by Time magazine as "2005 Asian Hero of the Year". The more I read about her work with elephants and the Elephant Nature Park she set up not far from Chiang Mai town, I could not help but feel persuaded to forgo recommending any other places in the Kingdom.
There is plenty of information for those interested in riding elephants and every tourist office has stacks of brochures to choose from. I, on the other hand, set out to learn more about her alternative. I drove out of town one morning early for about an hour and made my way to the entrance of Elephant Nature Park. She had been expecting me and, when we arrived, a woman standing near the outside kitchen waved and motioned me to come over. It was Lek and she was busy helping to prepare one of the daily meals for more than 60 fulltime staff and several volunteers.
Upstairs, day visitors and guides were gathered, drinking complimentary coffee and tea in a large Thai-style wooden building. The grounds, though well managed, maintain the natural beauty of a jungle retreat with plenty of open space surrounded by mountains. I took a seat near a tree and soaked in the stunning environment.
About 30 minutes later, Lek motioned for me to follow her and we headed over to a group of elephants. There was no conversation. I just stood there and watched as she caressed and played with a 4-month old baby elephant for more than 30 minutes. She later told me that this was part of her daily routine.
Unlike typical elephant camps, there is no elephant riding at Elephant Nature Park nor are there any organized performances. However, there is definitely no shortage of entertainment simply observing their behavior which is often quite playful during their daily river time. Guests at the park are encouraged to participate in bathing the creatures while respecting certain guidelines for safety.
All of the elephants Lek has purchased in her rescue efforts suffered some sort of physical or mental abuse. Outside the restaurant, on the wall, photos are displayed with a brief biography of each one. The camp is funded through private donations including fees paid by the volunteers.
In the afternoon, once she had time to break from her daily elephant activities, Lek and I sat up in a tree and she told me more about the mahouts. Her goal is definitely to get the elephants off of the street yet she is sympathetic to their trainers as well. She feels they must be given a viable alternative that still allows them earn a living. All of the mahouts at her camp are provided with housing, meals, and a monthly salary. She helps obtain legal documents for those who arrive undocumented. Her tone lacked judgment of the mahouts but rather a greater need for education and understanding. Speaking in a soft yet determined voice, she expressed a desire for her fellow countryman to take more interest in the plight of these endangered creatures.
Meanwhile, elephants grazed freely in the surrounding pastures with their mahouts squatted quietly nearby, some alone and others in small groups. Occasionally, during our conversation, Lek turned to look at them briefly, as a mother might while watching her children playing in a park. The bond between Lek and her staff is as obvious as it is with the elephants. There is a mutual respect that lingers in the air and exudes a common love they each feel for the sanctuary they now call home.
Volunteers may enroll in a program, staying at the park overnight or up to four weeks and take part in daily life with the mammals including bathing them and working alongside the mahouts. In order to alleviate stress on the elephants and maintain a safe environment, only small numbers of tourists may inhabit the park each day.
Future plans include purchasing more land enabling more elephants and trainers to become part of this conservation project. Elephant Nature Park offers a unique alternative for street mahouts as well as tourists. They do not allow unscheduled visits but there is a separate office in Chiang Mai town with detailed information about arranging visits.
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